Find out more about loose coil handling in Keith's blog post. I am one that has had issues with the DiiCooler cooling the nozzle. This is very interesting, thank you for the information and pictures! Most importantly though is you want the fan to be ducted and aimed at the print. Setting the print speed needs to take into consideration the temperature you’re printing with and the thickness of your filament. ... and a slower retraction speed (RS), than average for PLA. Downside is that they sound like jet engines, and I wouldn't be surprised if they induced some sort of artifacting from vibration (or even gyroscopic progression). I don't have a dii cooler with a radial fan right now though. 5KG Texas Size Spool Wood+ PLA printer filament 1.75 mm 11 lbs. Strings can be reduced with greater retraction, but be careful not to retract too much. None of my testing was with the stock fan at all. I thought it redundant to test the difference between these setups. At no point did I see a plateau in performance. We use cookies on our websites for a number of purposes, including analytics and performance, functionality and advertising. As with temperature, the best speed for the object … Loose coils can be very tricky to manage. I'm pretty satisfied with the improvements obtained by reducing the fan speed and the quality of the suspended structures thankfully to the addition of the support interface and the extra distance: not the easiest supports to remove, but definitely the best aesthetic result so far. For what it's worth, I am using a 12V 0.15A blower with a rated air flow of 4.21 CFM. Most comparisons seem to be between a radial cooler with a blower against the stock garbage cooler. After a while, we slowly increased the temperatures and after that decreased the temperatures. I had mine tweaked to reach 100% by 15/20mm. Derived from corn and other renewable starches, this biodegradable material is both environmentally friendly and smells like sweet pancake syrup. If you’re using a standard E3D V6 HotEnd* , you can reliably process a maximum of 847 cubic millimeters of PLA per minute. I use Simplify3D, and part of the advanced options seems to control the fan speed. Press J to jump to the feed. Assuming nozzle size a… I can't print ABS at the time being, so i'm looking at other coolers. It can't shape flow nearly as effectively as the Diii, which better takes fluid dynamics into account. Most electronics and firmware allow the addition of a fan via a spare connector. Strings can be reduced with greater retraction, but be careful not to retract too much. Other parameters, such as temperature and speed, can mitigate the need for cooling and most people definitely wouldn't print overhangs this extreme without supports. The diameter of the nozzles and the speed at which the extruder presses the PLA into the hot end are also decisive for setting the printing temperature. Have your travel speed as fast as your printer can handle, for me I leave it at about 150mm/s. Fan speed in Slic3r is 100% with the fan disabled for the first 6 layers. I run my blower fan at 100% through a DiiiCooler for all PLA printing. 210 is way too hot for any PLA I've printed. A range of 30 mm/sec to 90 mm/sec is generally recommended for PLA. /r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing. /r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing. Reduce oozing: because of PLA’s fast flowing speed, oozing and stringing can occur, making prints look less polished.By optimizing your retraction settings you can mostly prevent this from happening, Simplify3D have a guide here for working on this in your 3D slicer. It's also worth noting that different layer heights will influence overhangs (just like bridging). If you want to run your fan harder but have trouble maintaining hot end temp, I have some suggestions: Make sure the airflow is focused more towards the tip of the nozzle than the heat block. Well, for a base tune, grab a PLA profile you know works for you – or simply your slicer’s default profile – then reduce the part cooling fan speed a bit, 20 to 50% work well on most of my printers and adjust the temperature to match what your filament manufacturer suggests. A thicker filament will take longer to heat up, and thus needs to be printed slower. Note that the 0.12mm layers curled enough to collide with the print head and cause layer shifting. Out of stock. Yum. However, printing PLA is usually good at any speed between 30mm to 90mm/sec. Learn how to find the perfect print speed settings for PLA and more materials! For materials such as PLA, PETG, CPE 100, a layer fan can be used to help quickly solidify the layers. PVA should be completely dry/dried for best results. Retraction: As the Ender 3 has a Bowden style setup, retraction settings are much higher. As having an unleveled bed leads to deviation in the distance between the nozzle and the bed. I use 25-40% usually. To me, this looks exactly like what I'd expect printing with layers almost as thick as the nozzle diameter and insufficient hotend temperature or excessive speed. With a radial fan the temperature dropped to 160 almost immediately! over just a bunch of straight-on directed air. The second pic is a threaded piece of the first one which looks ok at first glance but the threads are horrible, same for the threads on the first one. This is why the speed may be different for different materials. We also tried increasing and decreasing the extruder speed and the fan speed, but this also resulted in a less good filament. August 6, 2018, 9:18pm #2. i would connect the fan to you’re arduino e.g motherboard, Another possible solution is to program stops between layers in the rolling software (Cura, Simplifiy3D, etc) The relationship between printing speed and extrusion temperature Premium PLA is a slightly harder PLA with an excellent thermal stability and a slightly faster crystallization process of the 3D printed layers and is often used for large(r) scale prototyping on industrial-sized 3D printers. Soft PLA For higher quality end results, a lower printer speed is more likely to get you the finished product that you want. I'm thinking about designing a fan shroud that accepts two 40 mm fans so I can wire them in series, since 24v fans are really hard to find, and I have a million 40mm fans sitting around. Still, when it comes to a PLA part cooling fan I'll take the most I can get. I suspect my DiiCooler is too high and cools off the nozzle - I've had to limit it to 50%. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are). Print at a low speed. We found that lower temperatures and higher temperatures had a bad effect on the extrusion of shredded PLA. http://www.desiquintans.com/coolingtests2. I can't run mine at 100%. Fan speed. The amount of energy a filament can absorb during printing depends on the length of the hot-zone and the time it takes for the filament to pass through the hot-zone. Here are some great tests on different shroud types. Everyone knows that PLA likes fan cooling! I would say lower your print temps. ... Best solutions for PLA cooling fan please. I only wanted to look at whether any setting below 100% can be 'just as good' as 100%. Here are 3 different layer heights at the same fan speed. It does seem like your initial driver was claims the blower is far better than stock, yet you never compared stock fan at 100%. Leveling the bed is one of the most important tips when it comes to a quality and a successfully 3D print. Edit I didn't include it in my post yesterday but I did prints at 50mm/s, 75mm/s and 100mm/s. Although some filament materials are more prone to warping than others, special techniques will be needed to prevent warping in practically all types of filaments. Very nice to see it is still greatly improved at full speed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Most items in this menu are editable values. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. $89.95. I don't have any trouble maintaining print temperatures (more on that later), but some people here do. Up to 230 when printing at larger layer heights. Keep your loose coils wrangled with a spool holder like masterspool for a more trouble-free experience. This pic is the closest. Quick view Out of stock. My fan speed has always just been limited to 80% of maximum because I had 2 ducted fans and they were too much for the hot end to handle at 100%. It has 5 sections of increasing difficulty: 30°, 45°, 60°, 70°, and 80°. I'm getting a lot of strings of filament and I can see the nozzle is moving previous material is layed out as it's adding layers so leaving it all warped. Follow I found one I Really like that mounts behind the X smooth rods so you have good view of the nozzle but it won't work as-is and I need to modify it to work. 1 and 2 were already enough for me to maintain temps, but the extra insulation makes it even easier for my machine. I have since switched back to the stock cooler and stock fan for the time being. When your nozzle is touching the bed, try to have your DiiiCooler about 2mm off the bed. Improve this question. print-quality heat-management print-fan  Share. Stringiness is generally based on retraction length. For the filament to expand it is necessary to put a certain amount of energy into the filament. Initial speed: 10m/s; Wall Acceleration: 300; Print speed: 25m/s; PLA Retraction Settings. PLA is also more rigid and “sticky” than ABS, so it’s less prone to warping. The longer a filament will reside inside the hot-end, the more energy it can absorb which will increase the amount of expansion. Print quality was not affected by the lower speed". 3 Likes. Therefore Premium PLA is available on large spool sizes. When used with ABS as a support material, you should keet the PVA support VERY close (0.1mm) to the ABS surface and use high support density for the PVA. The performance gap between the 40mm stock axial fan and 50mm blower fans has been pretty thoroughly documented. Print settings, such as printing temperature, speed, bed adhesion, and extrusion rates will be very similar to the normal settings used for the base material that the fibers were added to (for example, the stock PLA settings would be a good starting point for PLA … Fan Full on at Height: .5mm Speed Min: 35% Speed Max: 75% Minimum Speed: 10mm/s Cool Head Lift: unchecked (unless needed for tiny complex sections) 210 is way too hot for any PLA I've printed. Cobalt Blue Metallic PLA 3D … I used washers to lower my DiiiCooler because I felt the stock height wasn't low enough on my machine. Going cowboy on your spool handling can quickly end up in a frustrating, tangled mess. When not in the printer extruder, tuck it away in the cardboard spool's corrugation! Mine is wrapped in two layers of ceramic fiber insulation, secured with kapton tape. The only solution is to try, try and try again ! I think that depends on printer, UM's like to print PLA at 210. Fan Speed: 100% Best Practices These tips will help you reduce the chances of common 3D printing issues associated with PLA such as stringing, oozing, or under-extrusion. This piqued my curiosity as to how much of a difference fan speed can make. Have your minimum layer time set to about 35seconds so on smaller objects it'll slow down and give the print time to cool. It would totally fit on the stock fan mount. Press J to jump to the feed. A higher speed allows for better cooling and reduces oozing, but can also increase the shrinkage of the material. We only need to consider two factors here. I recently ran overhang tests to look at the efficacy of different fan speeds. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, MP Maker Select 2.1, MP Select Mini, MP Mini Delta, S.T.E.V.E. I don't think any of them are especially analogous to the DiiiCooler though. I had indeed been curious about some of this, especially after my post yesterday comparing the results from stock to Dii. I've had pretty good success printing esun gold at 205 with the bed set at 65 first layer and 60 subsequently. I'm currently trying to figure out how to use this eSun Gold PLA that isn't working well, currently looking like 210 for the nozzle and 65 for the bed to get it to actually stick together and not delaminate, completely been guessing fan speed. Print speed: A general recommended speed of 60 mm/s works great, balancing quality with printing time. It's also worth noting that different layer heights will influence overhangs (just like bridging). My fan speed has always just been limited to 80% of maximum because I had 2 ducted fans and they were too much for the hot end to handle at 100%. The comparison shots I included were both done at 50mm/s but I may try again at 75mm/s and 100mm/s to see how much it improves them. Here are 3 different layer heights at the same fan speed, blowing a shitload of air straight at the printed area, pictures comparing it to the stock cooling setup. I'm running my dii cooler with a 40 mm high static pressure server fan from a 1u server. Flow & Efficiency as functions of Shaft Speed & R-line • Turbines: Corr. I'm going to try those settings on this threaded leg and see what happens. Each test print used identical slicer settings except for the fan speed. Brands of PLA have their recommended temperature settings on the spool. Unless someone is running a far more powerful blower, I find it hard to believe that decreasing the fan speed doesn't have any impact on print performance. Up next is PLA, or polylactic acid, another popular material used among the 3D printing fans. I'm curious whether the radial coolers really perform better than just blowing a shitload of air straight at the printed area, but haven't really seen such comparisons.